Traditional outfits for modern Kosovan weddings
An EU-funded project helps revive traditional crafts.
29/09/2022
Janissaries were an elite infantry unit that formed the Ottoman Sultan’s household troops. They were known for their strict discipline, order and fierceness and courage in battle. They were recognised also by their outfit known as the kaftan dolama. A dolama was a unisex knee-length or upper-calf-length robe that was closely fitted through the waist, with narrow skirts and full-length, generously wide sleeves. The word dolama, literally “wrapping,” is an adjective that indicates that the garment was intended to be worn on the outside of an outfit.
Over the following centuries, the dolama became an outfit worn not only by janissaries but also by other people, in particular by rich women. However, even among the wealthy, the dolama was a utilitarian garment. Throughout history, the dolama became important for many other communities as part of clothes for special occasions throughout the former territories of the Ottoman empire, including the Western Balkans.
In Kosovo, the dolama has retained its splendour and significance, and in certain regions, weddings are unthinkable without this special garment. Today it is worn by young brides and women, in as many variations as there are communities living in Kosovo.
“There was a time when traditional outfits were almost totally forgotten. Somehow, young people modernised and were no longer wearing traditional dress such as dolamas at their weddings. With the passing of time, the traditional outfit returned to wedding fashion. Nowadays, young girls are also combining it with skirts: the dolama is becoming modernised.”
Sebahate Kabashi, trainer on traditional handcraftsIn Prizren dolamas that are hand-made are in high demand as opposed to machine manufactured versions. It takes weeks – and of course, a lot of attention and love – to make one piece, and the beautiful handmade creations sell for up to €2,000. The technique of making a dolama is unique and is not taught in schools or in any other formal institution. As a result, the craft was at risk of being forgotten, despite the significant market demand.
For this reason, an NGO from Prizren called “Ec ma ndryshe” has started working on keeping the tradition alive, helping those that wish to save and revitalise traditions but with a modern twist. With EU support, they have organised training to teach women the handmade production of dolamas.
Sebahate Kabashi is an experienced dolama craftswomen, who has been training other women on dolamaproduction. “There was a time when traditional outfits were almost totally forgotten. Somehow, young people modernised and were no longer wearing traditional dress such as dolamas at their weddings. With the passing of time, the traditional outfit returned to wedding fashion. Nowadays, young girls are also combining it with skirts: the dolama is becoming modernised,” she says.
“I knew that after finishing this training I would get some work, but I never thought that the orders would start to come so fast.”
Qamile Bytyqi, traineeCourse participants say this is a great opportunity to learn this skill. For them, this is a step forward in life, because by using their talent, they can earn an income and help their families. One of the participants is 30-year-old Mirlinda. She says that tradition has always been important, but that the economic factor is also important in making dolama. “This craft is profitable, and it gives an opportunity to work from home, which is important for us housewives. It is also very much in demand in the municipality of Prizren,” she says.
The trainer, Sebahate, adds that many of the trainees started to work while they were still attending the course. One of these successful trainees is Qamile Bytyqi. Following the end of the training she published her work on Facebook and Instagram and orders started to come immediately. “I knew that after finishing this training I would get some work, but I never thought that the orders would start to come so fast,” she says.
About the project
The training was conducted as part of the “Women and youth for community development and cultural heritage” project, implemented by the “Ec Ma Ndryshe” NGO. The project is implemented with the support of the financial grant provided by the “Cultural Heritage as a Driver for Intercommunity Dialogue and Social Cohesion” project funded by the European Union’s Instrument contributing to Stability and Peace (IcSP) and implemented by UNDP Kosovo.
Photo credits: Ec ma Ndryshe